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« Las Dos Hermanas Taco Truck, Merced CA | Main | A Cured Ham Guilty Pleasure »
Monday
Oct172011

Searsucker, San Diego

 

I started with the spinach salad topped with bacon, bacon, bacon and coddled egg. Did I mention spinach salad with my bacon? Freshly assembled and brought to the pass, my spinach didn’t sit, it still had texture when it reached me. Thoroughly tossed, well seasoned, and very well garnished , I truly loved my salad. Not traditional spinach salad, this version has a creamy dressing and a cold coddled egg, rather than a hard-boiled and chopped one. I mentioned bacon right? Large pieces of bacon were everywhere, no tiny bacon bits or bacon sweepings anywhere to be found. Just large slices of crispy delicious bacon. Critically speaking, the amount of bacon was probably too much, but there wasn’t anything left on my plate either.

Second up, tuna tartare with a bit too much sirachia and taro chips. The cuts of tuna were consistent and precise and the tuna was fresh, no gummy texture. The taro chips were actually crisp and seasoned with salt. Chips can be an afterthought, but these actually were good. What I have issue with was the level of heat in the dish. I like spice and heat, but when it becomes a race to eat the next bite just to speed through the ongoing heat, it’s no longer relaxing. I did mention this heat issue to the server and she agreed that there has been some inconsistencies in the heat of this dish based upon who’s putting it together. Interesting, so she knew it and didn’t tell me until after I ordered it an complained. If I’d known about the heat or inconsistency, I would have ordered the beef tartare. 

Bacon, eggs, and toast with gravy. Talk about managing expectations. This wasn’t some simple country breakfast. This was Brioche toast, topped with crispy pork belly, poached egg, and country gravy. Sick, off-the-charts good is what this dish was. As near perfect as one could construct a dish. Each element was exactly right. The pork belly fat was both caramelized and only slightly gelatinous, with the pig meat moist and delicious. The brioche was toasted and not a bit soggy. The egg on top was just runny enough. All wonderful. Finally, the country gravy was treated like a French sauce, not some afterthought. There was color and richness to the gravy that brought out all the flavors and incorporated them together rather than smothered them.

I was impressed with the food. As a note, I ordered off of the starter menu only, not a single main entree. Seriously, I was tempted to order a second bacon, eggs and brioche. It was that good.

 

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