Lecosho, at the Harbor Steps in Seattle is certainly getting a lot of buzz. I was fortunate enough to sample several dishes that evening. I started with the grilled octopus in a spicy salsa brava over chickpeas. The grilled octopus was wonderfully tender. I have no problem with spicy, but I would have expected the level of heat used for a three day old octopus in Mexico in order to mask the smell and taste, not fresh octopus in Seattle. Personally, I’d tame down the heat. A note on the chickpeas, flavorful and tender.
The grilled quail in harisa bbq sauce on a bed of corona beans and tossed in aioli was lovely and the heat from the harisa was a compliment not a distraction. The quail was cooked properly and the beans were sublime. The texture of the beans combined with the light zip of lemon in the aioli made me question why I don’t make beans more often and why more restaurants don’t use them?
"The beans at Lecosho were elevated beyond just a mere garnish or side-dish, to me they almost felt like the main attraction. Whoever taught the staff at Lecosho how to cook beans, pat yourself on the back. That goes for the chickpeas and the corona beans."
Third course was a grilled grape leaf wrapped lamb sausage with tziki. No my friends, grape leaves aren’t always used cold and only come from delis in Fresno. These were great little snacks, the lamb was rich, moist and had well incorporated seasoning. The grape leaf takes on a different flavor and texture when grilled, which some may find off-putting, but I enjoyed them.
To finish, a Lecosho special, pork belly wrapped pork loin. Yes, a crispy pork belly wrapped around a tenderloin. By wrapping the loin, in what amounts to a fat cap of protection, the pure lean meat of the loin stayed moist. By exposing the outside of the belly to the heat, a crispy layer formed around the circumference of the belly. The total experience combined the gelatinous and crispy combination of fat and seasonings with the pure lean meat of pork for a pork tour de force.
I was at the bar the entire evening, probably 3 hours. The staff of bartenders were knowledgable about the menu, engaging beyond just drinks, and personable. I appreciated the service and the evening out in Seattle.