Yes, I’m going to bash LA a little. I spent one year living down there. I was reminded on my 24 mile, 1.5 hour drive from point A to Mozza how much I dislike SoCal freeways. I was happy about trying Mozza and with all the pizza I’ve been eating lately, it was a good time to evaluate it.
Let’s start on a real high note; absolutely perfectly fried squash blossoms. Some of the best I’ve had. With all the variety of appetizers on the menu, I had to try something seasonal. Simply fried but without a greasy texture, lightly breaded, sprinkled with salt and stuffed with goat cheese, the squash blossoms were sublime. Any chef who has attempted to fry squash blossoms should take a lesson from Mozza.
On to the pizza, the highlight of Mozza, right? Well, it’s good. Maybe just good for LA. Mozza is a pizza manufacturing line, plain and simple. I sat right in front of the guys that make each and every pizza. Four people calmly make pizza from straight up noon, probably till close. Very professionally, always in motion.
However, it's the last two guys on the pizza line that I have a problem with. All of Mozza’s pizzas have a brown crust, not a speck of black blistering. Even my pizza, which had a black blistered area, was “pecked off” by the last guy who handles the finished pizza. And the 2nd to last guy tries to avoid blistering! I thought blistering was ok? But it’s LA. It’s an imperfection and must be rooted out. Sorry Angelenos, LA is not a foodie city like San Francisco, New York, Chicago or even Portland. Mozza’s pizza are “glam shots”. They look perfect, they have lots of different toppings to give the illusion of personality and they fit different moods. But they lack personality, just like a glam shot.
Mozza’s pizza is very good, but in the final analysis, not as good as it could be. In fact, it reminded me of Gioia on Polk in San Francisco, good, just not great.